SAN ANTONIO – In Texas, barbecue is more than a meal — it’s a cultural institution. But as brisket prices continue to rise, barbecue businesses across the state are feeling the squeeze and finding new ways to stay profitable.
For Richard Rackley, owner and pitmaster of Left Field BBQ, the challenge is becoming increasingly familiar.
“It’s very tough,” Rackley said. “We are in a state where the cost of beef is rising. So we have to find other alternatives to offer customers, such as pork, chicken, or we have to be creative with our menu.”
Each weekend, Rackley spends the early morning hours preparing smoked meats for customers at his pop-up business on San Antonio’s South Side near Mission Road.
Brisket remains the centerpiece of Texas barbecue, but it is also one of the most expensive items for pitmasters to purchase. Rackley said brisket currently costs around $5 or more per pound, making profit margins increasingly tight.
“There’s not a lot of profit in brisket. There never was,” he said. “It’s just using every part of the brisket to utilize what you can to make that profit.”
To offset higher costs, Rackley has expanded his menu and focused on reducing waste. In addition to offering breakfast items, he repurposes brisket trimmings into other products.
“We take our trimmings from the brisket, we make our own sausage, we make our own burgers out of it, and we render the fat from the tallow,” Rackley said. “We can resell the tallow, or we use the tallow to cook extra items. It’s literally using every part of the beef. Every part, no waste.”
Industry experts have cited shrinking cattle supplies and the effects of drought conditions as major contributors to rising beef prices. Rackley said another emerging concern is the potential impact of the screwworm, a parasitic pest that threatens livestock.
Despite the challenges, Rackley believes barbecue operators can weather the uncertainty by working together.
“If I could offer any advice, it would be to team up with other businesses to help support each other, lean into each other and help each other grow,” he said.
While beef prices may continue to fluctuate, one thing remains constant: Texans’ appetite for barbecue.
For pitmasters like Rackley, adapting to changing conditions is simply part of keeping a beloved tradition alive.
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